A story of two Manhattan restaurants: Gino’s, an Upper East Side fixture for more than six decades, and Pescatore, a Midtown staple on Second Ave since 1993 now facing stiff competition as the neighborhood changes. After taking over Pescatore, new restaurateur Charles Devigne seeks to shake up things in a bid for new business. His controversial decision to borrow one of Gino’s iconic features inspires Michael Sparaga’s exploration of that undefinable quality which transforms a simple eatery into an institution.